Yesterday I went walkabout in the leafy inner-city suburb of
St John’s Wood
‒ in
search of the homes of artistic Aussies and New Zealanders who came to better
themselves (or so they imagined) in fin-de-si
รจcle London.
It’s an area that young Australasian artists, writers and
musicians could probably only consider walking through nowadays, perhaps to a
cricket match, property values having rocketed there during the twentieth
century. Australasians have traditionally lived in close proximity in
London in order to network with each other. In the mid-twentieth century, it
was primarily in Earl’s Court (or “Kangaroo Valley” as it came to be known).
More recently the suburbs of choice have been more diffusely spread across west
London – from Neasden to Clapham ‒ the need perhaps substantially replaced now
by Facebook.
Throughout the nineteenth century St John’s Wood attracted
the artistic, notable inhabitants including the writers George Eliot and George
du Maurier, fashionable artists Sir Edwin Landseer, Laurence Alma-Tadema and
James Jacques Joseph Tissot, composers William Sterndale Bennett and William
Wallace, with singers including Manuel Garcia II and his sister Maria Malibran.
Through the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries it was a convenient
place for mistresses and courtesans, including Mrs Fitzherbert, wife of the
Prince Regent, and Jane Belmont, mistress of George IV.
The suburb had sufficient social and/or political clout by
the end of the nineteenth century that the Great Central Railway was forced, at
great expense, to tunnel its way south from the Finchley Road to its new London
terminus, Marylebone Station, leaving the leafy charms of St John’s Wood
untouched.
Whose homes did I find?
Much the most exciting was the discovery that 87a Clifton
Hill, where the Australian sculptor Bertram Mackennal (later Sir Bertram, he
was the first Australian artist to be knighted) lived and worked with his
family for ten years from 1894, is not on the road, but set back behind No 87
down an alleyway ‒ a
real studio house. I rang the bell, but nobody was home, so I’ll have to go
back another time to see if I can get a look around. Just three doors away was
the studio of another important sculptor, Sir William Reid Dick. For some
reason Reid Dick has a Blue Plaque, while Mackennal has none. In 1904 Mackennal
moved a short distance to more salubrious accommodation in Marlborough Hill.
At 10 Hill Road lived Arthur Streeton and his new wife, the
Canadian violinist Nora Clench, a house which “though ordinary-looking outside,
is delightfully artistic inside,” according to the Sydney Morning Herald in
1910.
It seems that Durham House in Langford Place, the home of the
great contralto Ada Crossley, has been demolished, but, judging by others in
the street, it must have been a fine property, a magnet for visiting
Australians.
A pair of brothers from Wellington, Arnold and Garnet
Trowell (cellist and violinist respectively), lived with their parents at 52 Carlton
Hill. While Arnold became a leading player in his generation, both brothers are
best remembered now as beloved by another young New Zealander, Katherine
Mansfield, who was to become perhaps the greatest writer of short stories in
English in the twentieth century. Katherine became infatuated with Arnold
first, then, when he did not reciprocate, with Garnet, with whom she became
pregnant in 1908/09. She lived with the Garnets for a while in Carlton Hill.
On the edge of St John’s Wood at 11 Boundary Road, with what
must have been fine country views to the north, lived the Australian portrait
photographer, H Walter Barnett. He moved to set up in London (from Sydney) in 1898,
where he quickly established himself as a leader in the field, Australia’s
first world-class photographer.
Above: Arthur Streeton and Nora Clench with their dog Pat at
10 Hill Road, St John’s Wood, by H Walter Barnett, c.1909